Updates!
New amps are in. Also sounding pretty good 57W per speaker at the front and 280W
At a meet recently i hit 130.2 @ 58Hz the frequency is higher than i would have liked ideally it needs to be lower to mid 50's so that's another project
And here is the braiding ill be using to protect them
Both are UV reactive as well
I also ripped out the the resonator box from the intake system to improve induction and also the noise.
Anywho, lowering the max point of the sub.
Im wanting to keep the box the same size so some lateral thinking is needed on how to make the inside seem bigger than it really is, tardis style but for sound. Solution is fluff. Now i have already filled the box with fluff or rather pillow filling.
Some more filling = more internal space by fooling the sub using the fluff to make things seem bigger than they are.
Proper geeky techy stuff from here on so ill say sorry if i reduce your mind to the consistency of macaroni cheese... if i do add some pepper heat and enjoy
Also the high end seems a bit bright for my liking so ive made some 3bd L-Pad @ 4ohm using a 7W 1Ohm resistor lots of complex maths involved but none the less it works and will not harm the front end sound quality only make it more natural.
The mids im using (Imagine I61-2's) really kick. So with that in mind i want a bit more kick. Mids ideally use an infinite baffle so simply by fitting them in the doors is usually enough.
Im going a step forward by totally sealing the inner skin leaving a small amount of air movement from the drainage holes in the door and gaps in the window mech.
Ill be adding wave diffusion material behind the mid its self to give a more liner throw as well as looking at ways to stiffen the physical door and while keeping it inert and reducing rattle/vibration which translates into sound loss. Second noise issue i have is from the tweeters mounted in the sail panels, im experimenting with with the L-Pad to see if i can maintain them in the stock location while lifting the soundstage to ear level where as currently it seems to be upper chest height slightly above the physical tweeter. I can do that equalising the path length so basically giving a collision point which to lift the stage is somewhere on the windscreen doing this will give a better sound stage for both driver and passenger.
Now to improve this i need to also adjust the mounting of the tweeters not as in their place but whats behind them which currently is a bit of naff foam. So. replace the foam with sound proofing material and also pack the internal space with pillow fluff in a soft bag. This should also help reduce wind noise from the wing mirrors at speed.
The boot is also getting a treat with some proofing to the lid and also in the boot itself. There will be something behind the sub to help dampen the movement and vibration of the box this will help reduce any rattling from that area and should improve the sound quality.
All this proofing etc should lower my peak by around 4-5Hz which is what im after and also bring the max db up of the car maybe 1-2 depending on the thermlab sensor Seems alot of faffing but it gives me something to do over the winter
Im playing with the braiding and the 2ft UV strip i got this week so im hoping to be able to fit the lot by Saturday so i can have fun at night with it and get some photos
